Tandem Style
I went surfing yesterday with some of the boys and braved ‘cold’ July conditions to catch the strong pulse of South swell we have been getting lately. As always, I bring my camera to snap a few shots along the way and was lucky enough to capture this epic moment of my friend Skylar bottom [...]
Electric Ad
I got to give the folks over at Electric Visual a big shout out for creating an incredible ad with some shots I took during a Mentawai trip back in April. Most of the time when I license photos I never know what is going to happen with the images. Sometimes the color looks bad [...]
Audience
Here’s a summer reality check. Your chick is not going to give you props on every sick turn you make in the lineup. Why? Because she can’t even tell it’s you out there in that crowd! Just surf and enjoy.
Memorial Day crowds
Hope you style one out of the pack this weekend! Have a safe and enjoyable Memorial day.
Upside your head with karma!
I believe in Karma. This photo is a good example. Dude cut in line at the top of the point and this little wave in the Maldives is giving him some retribution. Huey is watching. Good prevails. Bad deeds eventually come back to haunt you. Leave the wood pile a little higher; it pays in [...]
Subtlety
When you see a movie or a TV show with a beach scene, do you scan the screen for a wave? Then you wouldn’t have had any trouble finding the little gem in this image. I shot this on a Mentawai trip…see the photos here.
Father and son surf time
When I was a kid, my Dad and I used to go on camping adventures with ‘Indian Guides’. You would hang out with pops and the other fathers and sons and have adventures. It was pretty cool, in fact, I loved it. I don’t know if Indian Guides is still around, but nowadays I am [...]
Paddle power is back!
I got a call from a friend of mine today from the North Shore of Oahu. He was standing on a 3-story beach house where he was doing construction. There were a few guys surfing a well known tow-in spot in front of him and he was giving me the play by play. ”One of [...]
A warm wave for the Holidays
As the winter solstice and the holidays approach, I thought we could all use a warm summer wave (even if you live on the other side of the equator you can always use a warm wave). This one is courtesy of one of my favorite places to shoot – Padang Padang. I remember I was [...]
You should have been here (Pipeline) yesterday!
I saw that the North Shore was pumping this weekend, so much so that Surfline put the Pipe cam on the front page! It gets me thinking, ‘Hey there’s gotta be a wave from that swell on our beaches somewhere!’. So, I go and check the forecast- 2 to 3 feet. I know what that [...]
Billabong XXL update
Well the Big Wave hype is upon us with this winter expected to be El Nino big and powerful. I hope so. I received this update today from Billabong with a link to an insane video of Mid Season highlights mostly from down under. It’s our turn now. Let’s see if this big Pacific can [...]
Old School G-Land, Java
Here’s a shot from G-Land in 2004. I was staying at Bobby’s camp (I always stay there) in the huts that used to be up near the beach. I got some great waves on this trip and shot quite a bit as well. I took this photo from a bodyboard with my ‘new Canon 10D’! [...]
Winter Season kicks off with a bang!
Words and Photo by assistant, Jobi Manson It’s a regular thursday in mid-October. Dave had told me the night before that there maybe was surf on the horizon… I shrugged my head and said, “Ha, yeah I’ll believe that S@#$ when I see it.” The night before the first big swell of the season is [...]
ASP Hurley Pro
Photo and words by photo assistant Jobi Manson 3:45 am the alarm goes… I leave my apartment in West Hollywood to venture slightly farther south to Lower Trestles, to witness the only ASP event located in the continental United States. I met my friend John at Carl’s Jr. where we proceeded to make the journey [...]
Shark stories
When I was up in Stinson beach this past week I saw this sign. Most people will skip right over the part about rip currents (which in my opinion are far more dangerous to your average beach goer) and read about the great white. Hard to blame them. There is the menacing shark picture and [...]
Grandpa update – week 5
I got this email a few days ago. For those of you following the ‘Grandpa’ story (original post here) or know our friend Chris, he is having a tough go of things after his motorcycle accident. I was going to write this email into a story, but it speaks for itself. This shot is Chris [...]
Return to the Mentawai Islands
I was in the Mentawai’s back in May on the Indies Trader 3 and will be returning again in less than 2 weeks. We had a few small days on the last trip like this one, but anytime you can rip a turn like Australian Eddie here, it’s a fun day! I am looking forward [...]
Grandpa’s day
Here is one of those days my friend Chris aka Grandpa likes to surf at Uluwatu. This photo is taken from right in front of Peanut’s place where he hangs out and waits for days like this. It doesn’t look it, but that is solid Ulu’s. Easily double overhead with much bigger sets. Damn it [...]
Padang Padang, Bali
I have been going through my archive of surf images lately in hopes of someday getting it all online. It is a long process. Lately, I have been working through the Bali section and keep finding some epic images that I forgot about. This shot is just an average line up photo taken from the [...]
Mentawai Trip now posted!
I finally posted an entry on Mentawai Surf Photos from my recent Mentawai Trip. If you go to the website you can find the entry in the lower left portion of the site where it says ‘Photos’ or you can follow this link to my latest Mentawai Trip. The entry includes photos and the ‘photographer’s light [...]
Billabong XXL – my picks
So I sat down this beautiful Easter weekend and watched the videos/photos of the Billabong XXL. Although we didn’t get many XXL entries on this side of the planet (except for Mavericks), there were some whoppers to be had elsewhere- namely Tasmania and South Africa. So here are my picks with a brief explanation: Ride [...]
Ventura’s C street is fun!
When I cruised through the mountains this morning on the way to ‘C’ street, it was so clear you could see halfway to Morro Bay! It was a beautiful day and perfect lighting was met with fun surf. While it was on the inconsistent side and a few surfers got out of the water claiming [...]
Sharks Sighted at Waimea Bay!
Seems the ‘man in the grey suit’ has been seen around the Bay lately. I have never seen this sign before and it made for a shameless photo op. That’s me and my little boy who just turned 1 year old! All we really need is one big pumping swell to clear them out! Looks [...]
